{"id":374,"date":"2023-11-08T16:30:07","date_gmt":"2023-11-08T15:30:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/192.168.188.9:8080\/?p=374"},"modified":"2025-01-20T15:22:03","modified_gmt":"2025-01-20T14:22:03","slug":"ueberblick-sperlingspapageien","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/forpusfakten.eu\/en\/blog\/2023\/11\/08\/ueberblick-sperlingspapageien\/","title":{"rendered":"Overview: Basic information before, during and after getting your first parrotlets"},"content":{"rendered":"
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Before your birds move in<\/h2>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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What are arguments against parrotlets as pets?<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\n\t\t\t\t\t\tFirst, a word of warning.<\/span>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\tParrots, including parrotlets, are very sensitive, intelligent animals. This makes them very demanding pets that are only suitable for few people. So please think very, very carefully about whether parrot(let)s are the right pets for you!<\/span>\n\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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So here are a few arguments why parrotlets (or parrots in general) do not<\/span> make good pets.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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All parrots are non-domesticated wild animals<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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This also applies to\u00a0lovebirds, budgies and cockatiels, although they are often described as domesticated. All parrots are therefore called exotic pets. <\/span>Keeping a parrotlet is therefore the same as keeping a titmouse or a sparrow. So they cannot be compared with dogs, cats, rabbits, etc. They have no special adaptations to living with people. Therefore, they also need a<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>habitat replication<\/span>. For dogs e.g. the natural environment in human-made. For exotic pets a human-made environment bears<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>higher risks for mental and physical illness<\/span>.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Parrots need lots of attention<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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On the one hand, parrots are very social animals. Therefore, even if they are kept in pairs, they require\u00a0social interaction<\/b>\u00a0with their keepers to be stimulated enough. In addition, parrots are highly\u00a0intelligent\u00a0<\/b>and in the wild, they spend the majority of their day using this intelligence searching for food. That's why parrots get\u00a0easily bored\u00a0<\/b>living with humans which in turn often leads to abnormal behaviour <\/b>. We humans are therefore faced with the challenge of consistently thinking of new and varying enrichment for these little brainiacs; a parrot's life long.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Parrots are long-lived<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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With 10 to 15 years, even parrotlets live long lives considering their small size. Especially getting parrotlets at a very young age, this is a\u00a0big responsibility<\/b>\u00a0for the next 1-2 decades. So before you decide to get parrotlets, ask yourself where you are in 10 years and what your life will look like then.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Parrots are loud<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Although parrotlets are among the quieter representatives, parrots are always noisy pets. Almost all other animals kept by humans are comparatively very quiet or silent.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Birds are extremely good at hiding illness<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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You have to be very attentive and observe your pets a lot to be able to identify illnesses in time. Even shortly before dying, birds may exhibit very little suspicious behaviour. Moreover, as exotic pets, there is much\u00a0less medical research\u00a0<\/b>about parrots which complicates treatment of illnesses and injuries. With parrotlets there is also their small body size\u00a0<\/b>which makes it even more difficult and many examinations and treatments are not possible or only with difficulty.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Birds make a lot of mess<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Admittedly, this statement is true for most pets. However, this is often underestimated when it comes to birds, as they are actually very clean animals. But there is an equation in bird life. What falls down no longer exists. By living in treetops, parrots typically no longer come into contact with things they drop, whether that's\u00a0leftover food<\/b>, old\u00a0feathers and their dust\u00a0<\/b>, or their own\u00a0excrement\u00a0<\/b>. However, forbird keepers, all that is dropped is very real \u2013 and needs to be removed daily. If our birds come into contact with their droppings again - unavoidable in any form of husbandry - this poses a high risk to their health. The cage\/aviary floor must be cleaned daily, as well as the free flight area if applicable. It is also important to remember that although birds don't have fur, they can still cause\u00a0allergies\u00a0<\/b>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Parrots aren't cuddly animals<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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the\u00a0outdated image<\/b>\u00a0of a single-housed budgie eating out of its keeper's mouth or a large parrot sitting on their shoulder portrays parrots as animals that seek loads of closeness and affection from humans.\u00a0Social media<\/b> has amplified this effect by showering us with images and videos of extremely tame parrots cuddling with their humans, following them everywhere, bathing in their hands and much more. There is one thing you should definitely know: These parrots are usually\u00a0kept alone and\/or hand-raised<\/b>. That used to to be common in the past and still is in the US, precisely because parrots become particularly tame this way.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Hand-raised birds become so tame\u00a0because they imprint on humans during the sensitive phase of their development and then perceive them as<\/span>\u00a0als Artgenossen, als ihre Familie wahrnehmen. Dieser Fakt an sich ist schon problematisch und sorgt h\u00e4ufig zu Verhaltensst\u00f6rungen und Schwierigkeiten bei der Anpassung an echte Artgenossen. Bei Papageien kommt dann noch erschwerend hinzu, dass sie bereits w\u00e4hrend ihrer Jugend sexuell gepr\u00e4gt werden (Fox 2006<\/a>). Das bedeutet, dass sie den Menschen nicht nur als Artgenossen ansehen, sondern er in ihren Augen dann auch das Vorbild f\u00fcr passende Sexualpartner ist, vor allem bei isolierter Handaufzucht, komplett ohne Kontakt zu Artgenossen. Diese\u00a0<\/span>falsely imprinted\u00a0<\/b>Tiere interessieren sich h\u00e4ufig kaum bis gar nicht f\u00fcr Artgenossen und versuchen den Menschen zu f\u00fcttern, „putzen“ ihn und versuchen sich sogar mit ihm zu paaren. Ist dies der Fall, f\u00fchrt eine Trennung vom „Partnervogel“ Mensch auch zu enormem Stress, genauso wie die fehlende Erwiderung der sexuellen Avancen. Der Vogel wird davon psychisch krank.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n

In parent-reared single-housed parrots, the processes are similar, but often reversible when they are reintroduced to other birds. The bird becomes tame out of desperation because humans are the only means of social interaction. In the United States, most parrots are hand-raised and<\/i> and single-housed. So behind the cute pictures there's a deeply disturbed and sad reality. What is important is that, despite all these problems, neither hand-rearing nor single-housing guarantee tameness<\/b>. Often these birds become extremely aggressive and end up as tragic cases in sanctuaries. That is why unnecessary hand-raising is prohibited by Austrian animal protection law<\/a> (2. Tierhaltungsverordnung \u00a74 Abs. 5 ). Shockingly, in Germany this is still not mentioned in the law but there are at least legally relevant statements (e.g. TVT 2006<\/a>).<\/p>\n

Contrary to popular belief, parent-reared, pair- or group-housed birds can become tame. However, this requires\u00a0lots of patience and respect for the animal<\/b>. But the result usually isn't cuddling in bed, as that is not natural for parrots. If you look at birds that are not mated but are friends, you can see that they sit close to each other, preen each other's heads, share food (without feeding each other), communicate with sounds and go about their daily business together. And that's what you as a bird keeper can expect from a parrot: being allowed to scratch their head, sitting in close proximity (in this case also on your finger, shoulder or knee), letting you feed them by hand, reacting to your words with their own calls and enjoying spending time with you.\u00a0<\/p>\n

That being said, although every parrot can<\/i>be tamed, it can vary greatly how easily and quickly<\/b> that happens. This depends on the bird's as well as the owner's character, the bird's previous experiences, the approach (e.g. clicker training), environmental factors and much more. So you should never assume that your parrot needs to be tamed. Tameness is nice to have<\/b>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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This list didn't scare you off and you have no problem with the responsibilities? Then the next part is about what you should consider before and during acquiring parrotlets.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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What are parrotlets?<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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As with any pet, it is your duty to inform yourself thoroughly in advance about the chosen species<\/strong>\u00a0and the requirements for keeping it in human care .<\/strong>Here is an overview. You can find more detailed information about this in the blog<\/a>, as well as the Encyclopedia<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

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Genus<\/td>Forpus<\/i><\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Species<\/td>Pacific parrotlet (Forpus coelestis<\/i>) - most common\r\n
Spectacled parrotlet (Forpus conspicillatus<\/i>) \r\n
Green-rumped parrotlet (Forpus passerinus<\/i>) \r\n
Dusky-billed parrotlet (Forpus modestus<\/i>) \r\n
Mexican parrolet (Forpus cyanopygius<\/i>) \r\n
Turquoise-winged parrotlet (Forpus spengeli<\/i>) \r\n
Riparian parrotlet (Forpus crassirostris<\/i>) \r\n
Cobalt-rumped parrolet (Forpus xanthopterygius<\/i>) \r\n
Yellow-faced parrotlet (Forpus xanthops<\/i>)<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Distribution<\/td>Middle and South America<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Habitat<\/td>very humid to dry vegetation<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Size<\/td>10-15 cm<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Weight<\/td>appr. 30 g<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Colour<\/td>green with blue parts<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Lifespan<\/td>appr. 10-15 years<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Social behaviour<\/td>in pairs or flocks<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Breeding<\/td>cavity-nesting, up to 7 eggs, sexually mature at 6-12 months old<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Volume<\/td>Sparrow-like calls, mostly silent, louder now and then<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Character<\/td>active, curious, relatively aggressive\/territorial<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Aptitude for learning to speak<\/td>very low<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Husbandry<\/td>cage\/aviary at least 0,5 x 0,5 x 1 m (Germany) or 0,85 x 0,85 x 1,8 m (Austria) + free flight\r\n
in pairs (non-related, opposite sex), flock starting at 3 pairs<\/td><\/tr>\r\n
Conservation<\/td>CITES B<\/td><\/tr>\r\n<\/tbody>\r\n<\/table>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Detailed information on parrot husbandry can be found at the\u00a0ARGE Papageienschutz<\/a>\u00a0(parrot sanctuary Vienna; especially the Leitfaden Papageienhaltung - guideline for parrot keeping)<\/p>\n

Note<\/span>: In Austria in the federal state of Vienna, all parrotlet species must be\u00a0<\/span>registered\u00a0<\/a>and since 01.01.2023 you also need to complete a\u00a0<\/span>certificate of expertise<\/a>\u00a0before acquiring the animals.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Required equipment<\/h3>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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Cage\/aviary\/bird room<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Minimum requirement for one pair according to\u00a0<\/span>German animal protection law<\/a>: 0,5 x 0,5 x 1,0 m<\/span><\/p>\n

Minimum requirement\u00a0for one pair\u00a0<\/span>according to\u00a0<\/span>Austrian animal protection law<\/a>: 0,85 x 0,85 x 1,8 m<\/span><\/p>\n

But in general, follow the rule:\u00a0The bigger, the better!<\/strong><\/p>\n

The best and safest cage\/aviary material is stainless steel. But the coating of the Montana cages and hot-galvanized (!) aviary wire have also proven reliable. However, there remains a certain residual risk of zinc poisoning.<\/p>\n

A good alternative is a designated bird room<\/b>. A true bird room is completely equipped for the birds, so like an aviary with walls instead of grids. The minimum requirements according to animal protection law apply here as well!<\/p>\n

In addition to the room provided by cage, aviary or bird room, every day parrotlets need at least 4 hours of fly around the room<\/b>. The room which houses the birds has to be big enough to provide enough room for this. The room I have my birds in is appr. 9 m\u00b2 big and I believe the room to fly should not be a lot less than that. If you have an accordingly large aviary or bird room, free flight is of course already included.<\/p>\n

For more information, also have a look around the\u00a0parrotlet blog<\/a>\u00a0and the\u00a0Vogelschule (bird school)<\/a>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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cage made of stainless steel, costom-built by the Mosig company, with measurements of 120 cm width by 60 cm depth by 185 cm height it meets the Austrian minimum requirements.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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For visits at your avian vet, for moving houses or other changes in location you'll need a pet carrier (in box or bag form) to safely and comfortably transport<\/b>your parrotlets. Don't pick a too large size for your carrier, so that your birds aren't thrown around if you have to hit the brakes of your car. But it should also be big enough to enable your birds to move around and fully stretch their wings. Additionally, there should be room for bowls, clips or dispensers, so your birds are provided with food and water on the move.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Ich besitze derzeit das Modell „Friends on tour“ von Trixie in zwei Gr\u00f6\u00dfen, f\u00fcr einen oder zwei V\u00f6gel (letzteres siehe Bild). Baugleiche Boxen gibt es auch von anderen Herstellern, z.B. Dehner. Ich bin mit dieser Transportbox jedoch nur eingeschr\u00e4nkt zufrieden. Zum einen haben die Gitter eine Kunststoffummantelung, welche beim Anbringen von Zubeh\u00f6r schnell abkratzt. Das darunterliegende Metall ist dann nicht mehr vogelsicher. Zum anderen sind sie nicht allzu sicher, weil sich das Gitter vom Plastik l\u00f6sen kann, sollte die Box\u00a0e.g.<\/span>\u00a0<\/span>should you drop the carrier. Also the door is only closed with a clamping mechanism. This can at least be remedied with <\/span>stainless steel s-shaped trigger hooks<\/a> . I protect the carrier from breaking apart by putting it in an additional bag. Unfortunately, I haven't found any better carrier to this day.<\/span><\/p>\n

Carrier bags, like the one reccomended by the\u00a0parrotlet blog<\/a>\u00a0are an alternative to these classic carriers. I personally find them impractical because bowls and such cannot be fastened es easily. However, in case of dropping the carrier, they are safer.<\/p>\n

In case of an emergency, should you not have the right carrier on hand, you can also use a carton box with little holes in it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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My two parrotlets in their carrier on their way to the vet.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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I put my birds in their carrier in this cooling bag. First, this protects them from curious looks, cold and heat. Second, it's an additional protection in case I should drop them, since due to the padding the carrier doesn't break as easily.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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Bird lamp<\/h4>\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t
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ATTENTION! Ban of fluorescent lights from 08\/23! More on that\u00a0<\/span>here<\/a>.<\/span><\/p>\n

The difference between a bird lamp and a normal lamp is its light spectrum, simply put the colour of the light. First, birds are visual animals and need bright lighting<\/b>We know ourselves that we're more active with bright, relatively cold lighting. The best lighting of course, is natural sunlight and that's why good bird lamps imitate sunlight <\/b>as closely as possible. Since parrotlets come from regions around the equator, they need a light cycle of\u00a0\u00c4quatorn\u00e4he <\/span>vorkommen, ben\u00f6tigen<\/span>\u00a0sie einen Lichtzyklus von 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness<\/b>.<\/span><\/p>\n

Second, birds see differently than humans. While we see the colours red, blue, green and their mixtures, birds also see in the ultraviolet (UV) light spectrum, more precisely in the UVA portion<\/b> of the light. That's why bird lamps also emit UVA rays which normal lamps don't. Thus, in order to be able to see their surroundings properly, birds need special lamps.<\/p>\n

Third, there is also an important health factor. Just like in humans, birds need sunlight to produce vitamin D, more precisely, the UVB portion<\/b> of sunlight. So in order to enable production of enough vitamin D<\/b> bird lamps also emit a small portion of UVB light.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t

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Basic cage lighting using a ProT5 Kit by Arcadia and the sun spot by Lucky Reptile. The large lamp is secured by a self-made protection basket made from stainless-steel bird wire the sun spot is secured by the protection grid that came with the lamp. The cables are protected by cable ducts and a plastic-mesh protection.<\/figcaption>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/figure>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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for the basic cage lighting <\/b>the best lamps currently on the market, which I know to have the right parameters for parrots, are the fluorescent lights by Arcadia. For cages and aviaries in the correct size for one pair of parrotlets your options are:<\/p>\n